Krell's East Coast Style Delicatessen

Chef Jonathan Krell didn’t grow up dreaming about delicatessens, because he didn’t have to — they were easy to find in Philadelphia. But after moving to Oklahoma City in 2007, Krell’s soul gradually developed a hole his new home couldn’t fill.

Oklahoma City was good to Krell after he arrived. His brother Gerry Reardon, who owned El Toro Chino in Norman, invited him out for a visit and Krell was a resident by the end of the year. He found work in some of the city’s best kitchens, including Holloway Restaurant Group’s Park House and Lori Burson’s Stella Modern Italian, but the hole remained and a burning question emerged: “Where can I get good deli around here?”

Five years after joining Gary and Melinda Billings as executive chef at downtown Oklahoma City’s Patrono Italian Restaurant, Krell got his answer—and his name is all over it.

Krell’s East-Coast Style Delicatessen opened just over a year ago near Yukon High School, and the chef/partner believes that it’s hitting its stride thanks to a staff who have met challenges and adapted in real time. Gary and Melinda Billings, who live in Yukon, partnered with Krell on the concept, which is practically foreign on Oklahoma soil.

“Delicatessen” evokes images of cold cuts sold by the pound, fresh bread, pastries, house-made salads, and smoked sausage links hanging over the counter. Originally the outgrowth of markets, small independent delis popped up all over the East Coast through the early 20th century. But by the end of that century, most businesses called delis growing nationwide were submarine sandwich shops. The spread of Subway locations made the full-service delicatessen practically anachronistic in these parts.

Krell, though, grew up in delis begging for noodle kugel and fluffernutters.

“I grew up in Philly, man,” Krell said with a knowing chuckle when asked the question. “And my mom was a big foodie, she always made sure we ate great. She put a high priority on eating quality food. Then she married a Jewish guy and converted, so I grew up in a Jewish household where delicatessens are part of the culture.”

Delis where his mother could drop in for matzo ball soup on a cold day and come home with house-made pastrami, corned beef, a Taylor pork roll and a box of fruit-filled hamantaschen. Sandwiches were made at a counter using fresh-baked bread, and they might be topped with house-made whitefish, tuna, or chicken salad. Regardless of the topping, they came with house-made sour pickles, and the drink of choice was flavored seltzers instead of soda.

Be not surprised, then, when you find those very items on the menu at Krell’s.

Aside from the expected salads, the uninitiated will absolutely need to try the Kasha and Bowties. A warm pasta salad, the bowties are tossed with toasted buckwheat, caramelized onion, and bits of crispy chicken skin.

Krell’s offers all the expected deli sandwiches, and the chef promises his are the only true Philly Cheesesteaks Oklahoma has to offer.

“I fly in the buns and prepare them right, we bring in Cooper Sharp (American cheese) but still offer (Cheese) Whiz. We also offer provolone; that’s how we build ’em in Philly.”

Turkey and beef are roasted daily for sandwiches and entrees. The same made-from-scratch care goes into the salads, pickles, relishes, and desserts. The sweets at Krell’s are excellent, highlighted by black and white cookies soft as properly prepared table butter.

Among the biggest adaptations Krell made in the first year was adding a small menu of dinner plates. Krell claims the items are “nothing fancy,” just “good honest food”—but that’s in the eye of the beholder.

The Pot Roast is indeed a hunk of fork-tender roasted beef that arrives over potatoes, carrots, and gravy, but if mom or grandma ever made it this good every Sunday the football games would’ve had to wait. The red wine-tinged gravy is a virtual demi-glace, and the potatoes are whipped with horseradish and loads of butter.

Krell’s also offers a turkey dinner that’s a clash between Thanksgiving and turkey gyros. Simple beef stroganoff is transcended by beef short rib, smoked mushrooms, and cream sauce. Krell turned to his brother, who is also general manager, for Gerry’s Cheddar and Bacon Meatloaf.

All the meats and cheeses are available by the pound, and bread can be purchased by the loaf.

A year after opening, Krell’s is introducing the lost art of the delicatessen to a market with little of its own local deli history.

“It’s been a lot of education,” he said in a recent sit-down at the deli. “I’ve had to explain to a lot of people about the difference in price and quality between the pastrami we make and slice to order versus the stuff people get at the deli counter at their local Homeland.”

> Krell’s East Coast Style Delicatessen, 2121 S. Yukon Pkwy #150, Yukon, (405) 467-4512, krellsdelicatessen.com