Farmers Grain Kitchen + Cellar
The Mills brothers write a new chapter for a historic Edmond landmark
Cy Mills greets me with a stout cappuccino made with coffee beans roasted by his wife, Andrea. His brother, Payne Mills, breezes in the front door, waving as he heads straight for the kitchen. He comes back with petite vanilla scones made by his wife, Rachel. He’s been up since dawn, tending to the pigs, goats, chickens, and quail on the family farm in Luther.
It’s not immediately obvious that Cy and Payne are brothers, but their talents make for a perfect partnership. Cy is a sommelier and Payne is a well-trained and well-traveled chef. Despite taking different paths earlier in their careers, both brothers returned to Edmond, where they were born and raised.
“They’ll tell you to never get in business with your family, but it’s worked out for us,” Cy explains. They’ve had their moments, but the Mills brothers are intentional about rest and breaks for the good of their families and staff, and therefore the sustainability of the restaurant.
The building that houses Farmers Grain Kitchen + Cellar has long been a hub for those seeking the best of what local farmers produce. There is some debate, but this building may have been home to the very first business in Edmond. Originally a flour mill, it has been tried by fire (literally) and stood the test of time. In later days, the mill became a feed and garden store.
“As kids, we bought dog food and grass seed here, and flowers on Mother’s Day,” Cy says. The brothers wanted their new business to honor the building’s past as much as possible: “We focused on evolving, not changing,” Payne adds.
From the booths to the bar, the family completed a majority of the build-out themselves and opened the doors in fall 2022. The walls are white and the booths suggest the distinct hue of Oklahoma’s red dirt. The evening sun provides ambient lighting as it sets beside the grain silo and rests over downtown Edmond — a perfect backdrop for an elevated dining experience without missing the comforts of home.
“Oddities [on the menu] are made to be comfortable or tied into comfort food,” Payne says. “The ordinary is made exciting through technique.” An example is the dish Too Much Potato, which Payne calls a playful jab at tradition. Potatoes are prepared three different ways: silky smooth “Robuchon’’ potatoes make a base for homemade gnocchi with a generous sprinkling of gaufrettes, garnished with chives. Another shareable, Bread and Tallow, is more than a mindless snack. “We take fat and herbs, heat it, and basically make a fat tea,” says Payne. “We cool it a bit and then whip it into soft butter until it’s airy. We add more fresh herbs, salt, and serve it with Rachel’s grilled sourdough.”
Payne says they’re not willing to chase an ingredient once it becomes hard to find; they’ll change the menu as the seasons change, and in Oklahoma, that’s often. He hopes to produce more and more on the family’s farm to supply the restaurant.
Cy says he doesn’t want guests to have to get out their phones to decipher the menu, although they do hope to educate and elevate palates. “We’ve taken away the hard edges and tough decisions,” Cy says. He also brings a world of wines to Edmond and a sundry list of tempting spirits and cocktails. At the end of the meal, a grappa cart delivers digestifs.
Cy and Payne’s distinct talents and commitment to hospitality weave together, making Farmers Grain a space that honors their roots and leaves plenty of room to evolve and grow.
Farmers Grain Kitchen + Cellar, 102 W. 1st St., Edmond, (405) 216-3524, thefarmersgrain.com
